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Over the past year or so, I have handwired over 10 boards. Working to find new methods to make the process more efficient and cleaner every time. This guide will be the end result of 1.5 years in experimentation. The best advice I can give you is to take your time and try to focus on the build more as a journey rather than a destination. 

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With my first handwiring product, I tried doing the conventional method and it really didn't work very well for me. The procedure included tinning the switches, using a wire stripper to make sections, using solid core wire, and lot of pushing things into place to get soldered in. I ended up not finishing the project. 

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Materials needed. 

1N4148 Switching Signal Diodes

Round Nose Pliers (usually used for jewelry)

27 AWG Solderable Enameled Magnet Wire

24-26 AWG Stranded Wire (I prefer 24 but either works for me)

Hot Glue (for plates where the switches don't snap in)

Pro Micro or Teensy 2.0

Flush Cutters

Keyboard materials (switches, plate, case, standoffs, screws, etc...)

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Preparation

Column map. I like to have my column routes drawn out before I get started. Input your KLE Raw Data into qmk.sized.io and you should see an outline of you keyboard with column wires. Click the flip box so it is oriented like will be seeing it while wiring. Print it out or make something like this! (Screenshot+Teensy Image/ProMicro Image+MS Paint)

Handwiring Guide

Background and Materials

Pro Tip: While wiring the controller, I will either draw different colored lines using a marker (paper) or make lines via MS Paint (computer) to make it easier to keep track of my connections. 

Preparing Diodes. I like to make loops in my diodes. It makes for a more secure/durable connection to the pin and easier to solder. Tinning (melt a drop of soldering wire onto the pin) and attaching the diode to that was very hard to do consistently. I like to make these while watching movies or streams (like TopClack). 

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Here are some instructions on how I do it. http://imgur.com/a/uACNE

Switches and Diodes

Columns

Wiring the MicroController

Columns. This used to be the most meticulous part of the build for most people. I initially started by using a wire stripper, but trying to get only small 2mm sections cut out was very hard to do. I then switched to doing the razor blade method for the middle switches, but that meant 3-4 cuts into the insulation per pin (it's a lot... 100+ for smaller boards even).

Step one. Orient the plate so that the top is facing you, then push the switches in with the logo facing up (if it is metal, it should snap in). Flip the board and get ready to solder. *If you chose to make a board using acrylic plates, hot glue will be necessary to keep the switches in place.

Diodes. Take all of those looped diodes that have been prepared and place them around the left side pin closest to the bottom of the switch possible. I will orient the bottom leg of the diode to stay put using the switch below. Here are two examples Plate Mount vs PCB Mount. Now you can solder them using the traditional through hole method. Hold the iron to the pin and loop for a couple of seconds, then touch some solder to the tip of the iron. It will quickly flow into the loop. Make sure to put just enough that the entire inside of the loop is covered, then remove the iron and solder. If you have switches that are too far apart, use a wire to connect them.

Now we are going to want to take our round nose pliers and make 90 degree turns on all of the diode legs in that one row. I will make an upward bend at the point of contact so that they stay attached on their own. Time to solder it in. I will touch the soldering iron to the intersection of the diode legs (from below) and add some solder to connect them. Repeat until you have have finished connecting all the rows.

I recently started using Solderable Enameled Magnet wire and it has made the process much easier and cleaner. There is no need to strip any insulation. Grab your wiring map that you saved from earlier and make sure you follow it. I like to loop the magnet wire around the initial and end pins twice and loop once for the middle pins. I use my round nose pliers and make the initial loop and tighten it around the first pin. Then make another loop again and hand tighten it a little bit more before moving on the other pins. Repeat until you are at the last pin!

 

When it's time to solder them in, add some solder to the tip of the iron and hold it against the wrapped pin. You will see/smell the insulation burning off and see the solder adhere to the pin and the wires. Add a small bit of solder for good measure and repeat the process until you have all of them done.

Open up MS Paint and your file of the micro controller/wiring diagram or pull out your printout and set it in front of you. With the usb port facing down towards the switches. I like to go from left-right on the columns and from F0 downwards on the Teensy (A3 on Pro Micro). Marking my sheet as I go. I personally like using stranded wire on these because of their flexibility for tucking in wires. Measure the distance in wire and add half an inch then cut and strip. Make a small hook on one side and use the hook to keep the wire in place against the blob at the end column pins. Solder it in by touching the iron to the hooked in wire and the blob (add some solder for good measure).

Do the same of the rest of the columns and the diodes. 
 

Note: Diodes need to be connected below the orange section. 

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Soldering the wires into the Teensy should be pretty routine if you have a helping hand tool. Set it up so the wire is coming up through the bottom. Hold the iron to the the wire/hole and add solder from the opposite side. Solder should flow into the hole and connect the wire. Repeat until done. 

 

Not pro tip: If you don't have helping hands you can use some books to keep the controller and wire in place. You can also bend the wire over the edge of the controller to keep it in place. 
 

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